Onward Travel Guide

Overlanding

Guinea

Visa is $130 in Dakar or $100 in Freetown (double entry).

Guinea is very similar to Salone, but everyone speaks French (except for pretty much everyone in the countryside who only speaks Foulah, and transplants from Salone that speak Krio).

Conakry is hell on earth - never go there. And whatever you do, do not take the direct Gambia taxi (it took 5 days to reach Banjul).

You can either go from Kamakwie to Kindia or Kabala to Faranah. For each, there is supposedly daily transport, but you will probably end up hiking/hitchhiking a good distance. From Faranah and Kindia, there is frequent transport. From Faranah, it is about 5 hours to Mamou, then 3 hours to Labe from there; from Labe, it is about 13 hours to Tambacounda. From Kindia, there is occasional transport to Telimele and onward to Gaoual and Koundara - plan for a day or two to reach Senegal.

Guinea has awesome hiking, rocks, and waterfalls. Dalaba has a somewhat functional ecotourism office with guidance on various hikes. Doucki has amazing hikes led by a very charismatic English-speaking guide; $25 for hike, lodging and all meals.

http://www.peacecorpswiki.com/Doucki,_Guinea http://hikinginguinea.wordpress.com/
Dalaba Tourist Office

Guinea-Bissau

From what I've heard, getting across GB is pretty effort/time-intensive. The visa is available in Ziguinchor (Senegal) or Freetown for around $30-50 - it supposedly takes only a few minutes.

Senegal

You must order the visa online (50 euros + service fee). You can pick it up at some of the borders or any embassy. The embassy in Nouakchott told me to come back and retrieve my visa 2 hours later.

From Koundara (Guinea), you will probably have to hitchhike to Medina Gonasse, from where you can get to Tambacounda, Ziguinchor, or Basse in the Gambia. From any of those points, there are tons of transport options to everywhere - from Zig, there is a twice weekly ferry ($28, 15 hours) to Dakar. You can also get a direct car ($28, 13 bumpy hours) from Labe (Guinea) to a town just outside Tambacounda.

Gambia

Visas are available at the border for $25

Guinea is similar in food/price/culture to Senegal and Guinea, but everyone speaks excellent English. This is awesome.

Basse is a good entry point from Senegal. From there, you can get a 5-hour bus to Banjul for $6.

Mauritania

Visas are available at the border for 50 euros (they only accept euros). You can apparently get them for cheaper in Dakar/Freetown.

Nouakchott is an extremely dusty, exhaust-clogged, mosquito-ridden place. The people are friendly and there is tasty food to be had, but otherwise, it is a rather unpleasant place to be. It is not a good place to walk - you should take taxis everywhere (or your snot will turn black).

It takes about 4 hours (and $10) to get from the border post at Russo to Nouakchott, and about 4 hours (and $15) to get from Nouakchott to the Moroccan border. There is only empty desert and a few pitiful-looking settlements in between.

You can get a taxi to the Senegalese embassy easy enough, but you must order the visa online before going and bring the printout. The Guinean visa is either extremely hard to find or non-existent.

There are a few places in Nouakchott where you can sleep in a rooftop tent for $8. Auberge du Sahara is where all the overlanders hang out, and you might be able to hitch a ride (most are heading south though).

Western Sahara

Pleasant and safe with friendly people, low prices and good food, but extremely boring (unless you want to go kiteboarding). It is about 5 hours from the Mauritanian border to Dhakla, then 24 hours from there to Marrakesh. There is a daily bus for $20 from the border to Dhakla, but you would be better off hitchhiking. There are regular buses from Dhakla to Laayoune and Marrakesh - in total, it is about 24 hours and $50 to Marrakesh. There are multiple police checkpoints, but this area is treated as being part of Morocco.

Morocco

The High Atlases are amazing. You can go skiing for a few bucks a day, or hike for many days through the mountains, staying in incredibly scenic villages. The easiest jumping-off-point is Imlil (about 2 hours from Marrakech by taxi).

The Moroccan cities (Marrakesh, Fez, Meknes, etc.) haven't changed all that much in the last few centuries and are absolutely crazy.

Morocco has great food, cheap accommodation, and easy transport, and is, in general, way easier than West Africa.

Flights

Direct to America

One-way flights are expensive (usually about $1000, or possibly $800 out of Banjul), but the cheapest airports tend to be (in this order) 1.Casablanca, 2.Banjul, 3.Dakar, 4.Accra, 5.Monrovia, 6.Conakry. Lagos has some very cheap flights ($600) if you can figure out how to get there.

Getting around Africa

Gambia Bird has cheap flights between Freetown and Banjul (Freetown -> Banjul: $165, Banjul -> Freetown: $113) and to Dakar ($170/$190), Accra ($217/$188).

Getting to Europe

Banjul is a European holiday destination and has tons of discount carriers coming in all the time - you can usually find a flight to somewhere for 99 or 129 euros.

Gambia Bird has Freetown -> London flights for $340 each way.

Getting Around Europe

There are a few dozen discount carriers in Europe and you should, in theory, be able to find a flight from any city to anywhere else for under $50. RyanAir, EasyJet and AirBerlin are a few of the big ones. WikiTravel lists more of them here.

Getting to the US from Europe

One-way flights from Copenhagen/Oslo/Stockholm to NYC/Miami/Los Angeles can usually be found in the $180-265 range (I found one for $99 recently). Norwegian Air. There are a few other discount carriers that fly to Miami (actually Fort Lauderdale) and NYC.